Knowing how to trim acrylic nails is a critical part of maintaining the look, longevity, and health of enhancements, and is a skill that nail technicians and home enthusiasts should know. Improper trimming will not only make the nails look poor, but also potentially lead to damage or discomfort.
Why Proper Acrylic Nail Trimming is Important
It’s critical to trim nails as part of regular maintenance to extend the life of acrylic enhancements. You will also want to know how to cut acrylic nails if your client wants a different length. Using improper techniques to trim acrylic nails can lead to cracking, lifting, or weakening of the nails.
Tools You’ll Need
Nail Clippers: A large size, like those used for toenails, work best.
Nail File: An electric file, or e-file will save you a lot of handiwork, but hand files work as well.
Buffer: Used to smooth the surface of the nail after trimming.
Cuticle Pusher: This is used to push back cuticle growth between the enhancement and the base of the natural nail.
Step-by-Step Guide to Trimming Acrylic Nails
First, determine the length that the client wants. If you want to remove considerable length, using a nail clipper can work to break off the nail’s unwanted length. Simply clip inward from the outside of the nail on both sides, and the acrylic will easily break off in a line that is close to straight. From there, the nail can be filed to shape.
If a more subtle shortening is desired, use the e-file to shorten the length. The electric file should be used at a medium speed, around 14,000-16,000 rpms
Note: (not all efiles run the same, some only have low-med-high settings, some don't go all the way to 30,000 rpms, so saying "half speed" will differ by efile), as opposed to the very slow prep speed. Using your thumb, apply slight pressure on the nail bed to reduce vibration for the client. Using the coarse safety bit, position the bit perpendicular to the free edge, apply slight pressure and pull the bit straight across. Repeat this as necessary to remove length, then use the file (also on half speed) with the same safety bit to restructure the upper arch in a one-directional motion to reduce the width of the thick tip and thin it out. Examine the upper arch and see if any other bulk and thickness needs to be reduced.
Switch the e-file out to the medium arbor band, and you are ready to prep for a nail fill.
Tips for Maintaining Shape and Length
Between trimmings, the acrylic nail length and shape can be maintained with careful filing. A hand file can be used when drastic length decreases are not needed, as this puts the technician in total control of pressure and speed to avoid weakening the nails with over-filing.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mistakes to avoid include trying to reduce length by cutting straight across with the nail clippers, or trimming/filing too much length at once. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to gradually refining the length of acrylic enhancements. Clippers should not be used when a subtle change in length is needed; in this case, the nail should be filed down.
Proper trimming techniques will keep acrylic nails beautiful, strong, and healthy. Continue to refine these skills with acrylic nails so you can keep enhancements not only looking great, but lasting as long as possible.