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19 September 2024

How to Push Back Cuticles Like a Pro

by Habib Salo

Cuticle maintenance is an often maligned and overlooked element of nail care. Some nail enthusiasts are afraid to “mess with” this delicate skin, which is oh-so prone to painful tearing. Others are way too enthusiastic—with the same ouch-tastic results—and go hog wild on shoving down their cuticles. This part of the nail is fragile and serves a powerful purpose. It deserves some TLC and respect. If for no other reason, you should learn how to push back cuticles appropriately so that you don’t bleed all over your nail polish and potentially damage your nails in the long run.

 

Understanding Cuticles

What many people call the “cuticle” of the nail, the thin, tough skin at the base of the nail bed, is actually the eponychium. The eponychium provides crucial protection for the part of your nail that grows, lending it hydration and a barrier to bacteria. Under the eponychium is the white protein growth that is the true cuticle, and this is what you want to remove. Correct cuticle care protects growing nails and does not damage them or introduce an open door for bacteria. Learning the best way to push back cuticles is a nail care step that you shouldn’t overlook.  

Tools You’ll Need

While it isn’t impossible to push back cuticles by hand, with manual clippers, this way is much more labor-intensive and ripe for hurtful accidents. The safest and most effective way to push cuticles back like a pro is with an E-file and cuticle bits. While it’s true that an electric file can be a touch spendy for enthusiasts, there are reasons it’s what the pros choose. Not only is an E-file faster and more efficient than even the most talented hand movements, but the cuticle bits are safe for delicate skin and, with care, won’t damage sensitive tissues on the cuticle and nail walls.


Step-By-Step Guide to Pushing Back Cuticles

    1. Remove any nail polish.
    2. Before doing any other work to the nail, apply a small amount of cuticle oil to the surface of the nail. 
    3. Use an orange stick or cuticle pusher to gently push the eponychium in the direction of the nail’s back end. If you encounter any resistance, use a bit more oil. 
    4. Use a diamond ball bit on your E-file to brush over the back end of the cuticle. Don’t be aggressive and work at a low speed, around 4,000-5,000 rpms, on the e-file. Gentle movements all around the edge will clean up the protein growth. 
    5. Next, use the diamond cuticle square bit to clean off stubborn protein growth from the nail plate.  Only make contact with the bit to the nail, do not use any pressure as you are moving the bit over the nail. Especially if you are doing cuticle work on grown-out gel enhancements, this bit is amazing at getting in tight spaces. Again, a gentle hand will ensure that everything is cleaned up nicely.
    6. Use a hand brush and Swipe to clean any residue off the nail. 
    7. You can use clippers to remove hangnails or excess skin, but trim with caution. 

Post-Care Tips

After pushing back your cuticles, it is vital to rehydrate your nails with either nail oil or a thick, rich skin cream. Without hydration, your nails can become brittle and prone to breakage.